After years of neglect the Bolivan railway system is not in a healthy state.
In fact there are two separate systems - one in the East and another in
the mountainous West. The link between the two systems has never been completed,
largely due to lack of finance. Any aid flowing to completing the gap has
continually been stopped by US interests, either by the big oil companies
who are more interested in the use of petroleum, or by US soy bean growers,
who fear the competition if soy beans can be easily transported to Chilean ports by rail.
The railway line between Oruro and Cochabamba had been closed before 2000. Since the line is liable to flooding the line with its
high maintenance cost did not prove economic, especially since it can not tap into
the eastern part of Bolivia as long as it remains uncompleted. The rails and bridges are
still largely in place. However they largely date from the early part of the 20th
century. [2002].
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After privatisation the Ferroviaria Oriental in the east was taken over by
Genesee & Wyoming, a US short-line operator, with railway interests around
the world. However that does not mean quality service. 10 hour delays
are routine on this railway.
The railway mainly traverses wide plains, with hills only visible in the distance.
soya fields line the track for many kilometres. Now and then one can see Menonites,
with their straw hats, riding past in their buggies.
In San José de Chiquitos horses lazily wander off the track while a freight train
accelerates out of the town. The General Electric diesel is essentially the same model
as the New Zealand DX class. The railway is part of life here. It is the easiest
way to reach Santa Cruz. Farmers from outlying areas come to San José to catch the
train and miners drink their fill after they touch civilisation again after weeks
of isolation. I thought it wise to join them after being heartily invited. Not
to worry - Bolivian beer is very weak. [Dec 2002].
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The train from Santa Cruz to Yacuiba on the Argentinian border consists of a long
line of passenger and freight cars. This means frequent shunting en route,
as the engines set down and pick up wagons.
Here the two engines, which always remained coupled together, set down another wagon
at a station near Villa Montes. The train is about to leave the plains for a few
kilometres and even encounters a tunnel. [Dec 2002].
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The Ferroviaria Andina in the West of Bolivia is run by a Chilean company.
The great difference to its eastern counterpart is that the trains run dead on
time. No delays here. Unfortunately I did not know this, so that I could
only catch a glimpse of this railcar as it was leaving Potosí. It ran only once a week from
Potosí to Uyuni. The arid landscape makes the harsh living conditions of the people
in this part of Bolivia clear. The railcar passes the Cerro Rico, a hill full of
minerals. [Dec 2002].
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The railcar is followed by a workers'trolley out of Potosí.
The railway line is also used as walkway, especially in this part of town,
which definitely is not high-class. [Dec 2002].
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Round many of the stations one can see old steam engines, that long since have
ceased operation. They generally are in relatively good condition,
considering their time of neglect. When I asked a Bolivian railway worker whether I could
enter a depot to take a few pictures of steam engines, he could not understand
how anybody would be interested in this antique technology. Unfortunately
he did not let me in.
A Garrat standing at the railway station of Potosí was basking in the sun. Sadly,
its working days seem to be numbered. [Dec 2002].
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Uyuni, lying at the edge of the great Salar de Uyuni, is not only a tourist
town but also an important railway junction. Trains from the mines of Potosí
pass through here. Further south the lines divide, one continuing to the border
with Chile, the other carrying on towards Argentina.
A freight train leaves Uyuni station heading south into the night
while the sun is setting. [Dec 2002].
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After a night's journey the express from Villazón on the Argentinian border
arrives in Oruro. Since the roads from here onwards are relatively good,
as long as one knows the potholes, Passengers have to transfer to buses
if they want to continue to La Paz.
The engine has just decoupled from its train and slowly curves around
the yard towards the depot, while the train is shunted from the platform.
Just about all of the traffic on the Andean system is managed by these
Japanese-built diesel locos. [Dec 2002].
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Later another engine shunts the train into the depot, which is surrounded
by a high wall. Dusty streets and dogs are commonplace in Bolivian cities.
So are Bolivian flags, here flying from the light masts, showing that with
all its problems, Bolivians are nevertheless proud of their country. [Dec 2002].
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One of the most interesting train trips in Bolivia was probably the one from Cochabamba
to Aiquile. The line twists and turns through tunnels and over bridges as it makes
its way through remote valleys. Once upon a time these little narrow gauge steam
locomotives hauled trains over the torteous route. One of them was on display
in Cochabamba Railway Station. [Jun 2006].
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At the beginning of the 21st century a railbus ran over the line three times a week in each direction.
It literally was just a bus that has been mounted on flanged wheels.
At the back was just a single axle with the driving wheels, while the front
was mounted on a two-axle bogie.
The line doesn't pass through many towns or villages. The railbus often just
stopped whenever a path crosses the line to allow people on or off. But Cliza even
had something approaching a platform. Even vendors were present to welcome
the passengers. [Jun 2006].
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Only few tourists seemed to catch the train. I must have been the first one for a long time.
The crew certainly looked after me and ensured that I got the best seat in a crowded
railbus and got to see the line well. They even stopped to allow me to cross a bridge
by foot. With the bridge condition this was not for the faint-hearted as I had to
hop from sleeper to sleeper in cases. And then the conductor took this picture of me
as the railbus slowly rolled onto the bridge. There were more spectacular bridges on the
line, but I didn't want to delay the train too much by touristy requests. [Jun 2006].
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At another stop most of the passengers got off to stretch their legs or hurry behind some
wall. I didn't catch the name of the place.
Beside the luggage, up to 50 people squeezed into the railbus, which certainly
had only been designed for less than 30. [Jun 2006].
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There wasn't much maintenance, but the rails were not neglected. We came across
workmen several times. That's the view across the driver's shoulder. [Jun 2006].
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And finally the train has arrived in Aiquile. That's the end of the line.
The railbus has just turned on the triangle and now stands at the platform
of Aiquile station. The line between Cochabamba and Aiquile was closed by 2020.
Parts of it are now used for a light rail near Cochabamba. [Jun 2006].
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