Peru

The state of affairs on Peru’s railways is currently disappointing to bad: many lines are closed, services are infrequent and there certainly seems no investment in infrastructure or rolling stock. The only railway functioning somewhat satisfactorily is the southern network, operated by Peru Rail. This company is a subsidiary of the international luxury travel provider Orient Express. Throughout the world it operates luxury trains and hotels. The railway is therefore strongly focused on tourism.

Without doubt, the most important destination by rail is Machu Picchu high above the Urubamba River. From Cuzco, the narrow gauge railway provides the only access to this remote valley. To climb out of Cuzco the railway line twists its way up the hillsides through switchbacks and zigzags. Here the loco pushes the backpacker train up the incline, having reversed at a switchback. [May 2006].

Later on the locomotive leads the train again and leads the train around a curve in the higher suburbs of Cuzco. After climbing the hills behind Cuzco, the railway line then descends more gently to the sacred valley. [May 2006].
The vistadome is a modern railcar, transporting well-off tourists to Aguas Calientes. This 4-car train has panoramic windows and distributed traction. Aguas Calientes is the transfer point to Machu Picchu. From here buses transport tourists the few kilometres up a winding road to the ruins. [May 2006].
The railway also uses these older panoramic railcars to transport passengers during off-peak times. They also go under the ‘vistadome’ brand, targeted towards wealthier overseas tourists. Here one of them departs the station of Aguas Calientes. [May 2006].
Machu Picchu – that’s why tourists flock here from all over the world. [May 2006].
The backpacker train leaves Aguas Calientes station for Cuzco. Most of the tourists only come to Machu Picchu for the day, staying in Cuzco or lodges further up the valley. [May 2006].
The village of Aguas Calientes clings to the sides of the Urubamba valley, wedged between mountains and the river. In the confined space the railway line is also used as the main street of the village. Here a jigger waits near the civic buildings of Aguas Calientes. [May 2006].
A train from the hydro station complex further down the valley makes its way through the streets of Aguas Calientes. Peru Rail also operates two daily train pairs for the local populations. This train passes through Aguas Calientes and then reverse into the station which is at a higher level. From there it then continues up the valley towards Cuzco. [May 2006].
Cuzco also is connected to the standard gauge railway net of Peru Rail. From Cuzco it passes through high mountains to the industrial town of Juliaca. The main line continues from there to the coast to Arequipa, while a branch line leads to Puno on the shores of Lake Titicaca. Three times a week there’s a passenger train between Cuzco and Puno, mainly catering for luxury travellers. But it also has a backpacker’s carriage with the fare only a fraction of the price. Guess, in which carriage I travelled. Near Cuzco the railway line follows the Vilcanota River for a considerable distance. [May 2006].
Here in Sicuani, one of the towns the train passes on its journey, I spotted some equipment for permanent way maintenance: an excavator and some jiggers. The passenger train is practically only for overseas tourists. It does not stop at any towns en route, but still takes considerably longer than buses travelling between Cuzco and Puno. [May 2006].
However, it does stop briefly in La Raya, the highest point of the railway line at 4313m above sea level. From here there’s a nice view over snow-covered mountains and roaming llama herds. [May 2006].
Tourists can get off in La Raya to look at and buy local craft and souvenirs displayed on the platform by eager vendors. That’s pretty much the only interaction with the locals on this exclusive train. No doubt, Peru Rail offers an interesting, comfortable voyage for people who’ve got the money, but absolutely not an authentic South American experience. [May 2006].